CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Check-List & Video

The CDL pre-trip inspection is a crucial part of attending truck driver training and getting a truck driving job. Before obtaining a commercial driver’s license, most states require truckers to pass a pre-trip inspection test. The CDL pre-trip inspection test can seem overwhelming due to the number of items that need to be checked. However, the test is not as difficult as it seems, especially with our CDL pre-trip inspection checklist.

During a CDL pre-trip inspection, truckers inspect many aspects of their commercial vehicle, including the overall safety of the vehicle; major hoses, fluid levels, and vehicle belts; the clutch or gear shift; and emergency equipment. The driver demonstrates their knowledge by walking around the vehicle, checking various safety components and explaining why each part should be checked for safety. Skip to: Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (Video)

CDL pre trip inspection check-list

Each company’s pre-trip inspection varies slightly.

Most likely you will have to do the coupling system, light check and in-cab inspections plus one of the remaining three sections.

Engine Compartment

What to Check For:

When checking the engine compartment, you will always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent or broken. The items you will need to check for include:

Belt Driven Alternator

Make sure all of the wires are connected. The belt should not be cracked or frayed and the free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch.

Back to Top
Belt Driven Water Pump

The free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch. Also check all the hoses running to and from the water pump to make sure nothing is leaking.

Back to Top
Brake Chamber

The brake chamber should not be leaking air.

Back to Top
Brake Drum

The brake drum should be properly mounted and secure.

Back to Top
Brake Hose

The brake hose is rubber, so it is important to make sure it is not leaking air.

Back to Top
Brake Lining

Check for oil or debris on the lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.

Back to Top
Caste Nuts and Cotter Pins

Make sure all three caste nuts and cotter pins are present.

Back to Top
Coolant Reservoir

The reservoir should not leaking and must be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Back to Top
Drag Link

Make sure the drag link is properly mounted and secure, and not cracked, bent or broken.

Back to Top
Gear Box and Hoses

The gear box and hoses should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts, and should not be leaking.

Back to Top
Gear Driven Air Compressor

Although the air compressor is hard to see, you must make sure it is properly mounted and does not leak.

Back to Top
Gear Driven Power Steering Pump

The steering pump is located in the same place as the air compressor and is also gear driven. Ensure the steering pump is not leaking.

Back to Top
General Hoses (Passenger and Driver’s Side)

The hoses should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts. Fluids run through these hoses, so it is important to make sure they are not leaking.

Back to Top
Hub Seal

The hub seal (or axle seal) should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Back to Top
Leaf Springs

Make sure none of the leaf springs have shifted.

Back to Top
Leaks

Check for leaks under the truck.

Back to Top
Lug Nuts

There should be no lug nuts missing. Look for rust trails, powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes.

Back to Top
Oil Level

The oil level should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Back to Top
Pitman Arm

Make sure the pitman arm is properly mounted and secure. It should be not cracked, bent or broken.

Back to Top
Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

Make sure this reservoir is not leaking and filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Back to Top
Rim

The rim cannot have any unauthorized welds.

Back to Top
Shock Absorber

Make sure the shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet.

Back to Top
Slack Adjuster and Push Rod

With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should never move more than one inch.

Back to Top
Spring Hanger

The spring hanger should be properly mounted and secure.

Back to Top
Steering Column

Make sure the steering column is properly mounted and secure. It should not be cracked, bent or broken.

Back to Top
Steer Tire

Look for abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should have a depth no less than 4/32 of an inch. Tires must be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.

Back to Top
Tie Rod

Make sure the tie rod is properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent or broken.

Back to Top
U-Bolts

Make sure all are accounted for.

Back to Top

Driver Door Fuel Area

What to Check For:

Again it is important to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.

Airbag

The actual airbag is rubber, so it is important to check for abrasions, bulges, cuts and leaks, in addition to any missing mounting bolts.

Back to Top
Axle Seal

The axle seal should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Back to Top
Brake Chamber

Make sure to mention the brake chamber is not leaking air.

Back to Top
Brake Drum

Make sure the brake drum is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.

Back to Top
Brake Hose

Check the brake hose at both ends to make sure it is not leaking air.

Back to Top
Brake Lining

There should be no oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.

Back to Top
Catwalk and Steps

The cat walk and steps should be clear of any loose objects.

Back to Top
Door and Hinges

Physically demonstrate that the doors open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or rotten.

Back to Top
Drive Shaft

The drive shaft should not be twisted and the u-joints should be free of any debris.

Back to Top
Drive Tire

The tread and sidewalls should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts. The tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. Tires should be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.

Back to Top
Exhaust System

The exhaust system should show no signs of leaks.

Back to Top
Frame and Cross Members

There should be no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing.

Back to Top
Fuel Tank

Fuel should not be leaking from the tank and the cap should always be on tight.

Back to Top
Lug Nuts

Rust trails could indicate loose bolts, while powder residue and racks around the bolts could mean the bolts have been over-tightened.

Back to Top
Mirrors

Mirrors should be clean for best visibility.

Back to Top
Mud Flap

Make sure the mud flap is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.

Back to Top
Rim

Make sure to mention there should be never be any unauthorized welds.

Back to Top
Shock Absorber

The shock absorber should be secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it will leak in the middle.

Back to Top
Slack Adjuster and Push Rod

With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.

Back to Top
Spacing

If you are equipped with duals, check to see there is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck.

Back to Top
Spring Arm

The spring arm should be secure at both ends.

Back to Top
Spring Mount

The spring mount should be secure at both ends.

Back to Top
Torque Arm

Make sure the torque arm is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.

Back to Top
U-Bolts

Make sure to check and mention that no u-bolts are missing.

Back to Top

Coupling Area

What to Check For:

Air Lines

Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging or tangled.

Back to Top
Apron

Make sure the apron is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.

Back to Top
Clearance

Make sure there is enough space between the tractor mudflap and the trailer landing gear so that they don’t hit each other when making a turn.

Back to Top
Electric Line

The electric line should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges, cuts or exposed wires.

Back to Top
Gap

The gap is not an actual item, however there should be no space between the apron and the skid plate.

Back to Top
Glad Hands

The seals should be in good condition with no cracks, signs of rotting, or leaking air.

Back to Top
King Pin

Make sure the king pin is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.

Back to Top
Locking Jaws

You must physically check that the locking jaws is fully locked around the king pin.

Back to Top
Mounting Bolts

No mounting bolts should be missing.

Back to Top
Platform

Make sure the platform is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.

Back to Top
Release Arm

The release arm should be in the fully locked position.

Back to Top
Skid Plate

The skid plate needs to be properly lubed.

Back to Top
Sliding Fifth Wheel Locking Pin

The pin must be in the fully locked position.

Back to Top

Trailer

What to Check For:

Airbag

Again make sure the airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leakings. The airbag should not be missing any mounting bolts.

Back to Top
Axle Seal

The axle seal should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Back to Top
Brake Chamber

The brake chamber should be properly mounted so that is does not leak air.

Back to Top
Brake Drum

The brake drum should be properly mounted and secure.

Back to Top
Brake Hose

The brake hose should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leaks.

Back to Top
Brake Lining

Check for oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.

Back to Top
Frame and Cross Members

There cannot be any missing cross members.

Back to Top
Header Board

The header board cannot have any holes or missing rivets.

Back to Top
Landing Gear

The landing gear must be fully raised and the cradle handle secure.

Back to Top
Lug Nuts

Rust trails indicate loose bolts. Powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes could be an indication of over-tightened bolts.

Back to Top
Rim

The rims cannot have any unauthorized welds.

Back to Top
Rear Door and Hinges

The rear door should open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or dry rotten.

Back to Top
Shock Absorber

The shock absorber should be checked at both ends for leaks.

Back to Top
Slack Adjuster and Push Rod

When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.

Back to Top
Tandem Frame and Release

Release handle and locking pins should be in the fully locked position.

Back to Top
Trailer Tire

There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts to the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. The tire should be properly filled to manufacturer’s specifications and checked with an air gauge.

Back to Top

Light Check

The five functions are:

In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests

What to Check For:

The last section is In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests. For the In-Cab Inspection you will once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:

Air Brake Test

There are three stages to an air brake test:

  • Applied Pressure Test – When doing the Applied Pressure Test, you will want to build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on. Push in the tractor and trailer valves which will then release the parking brakes. Push and hold the brake pedal, allowing the gauges to stabilize. When the gauges have stabilized, announce the Primary and Secondary PSI. Listen for air leaks while doing this.
  • Warning Light and Buzzer – Pump down on the brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on. This is typically at or before 60 PSI.
  • Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out – Pump down on the brake pedal until the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out, this will be between 20 and 40 PSI.
Back to Top
Air Pressure Gauges

The air pressure gauges should build to governor cut out.

Back to Top
Emergency Equipment

Your truck should have a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles and spare electrical fuses.

Back to Top
Heater and Defroster

Demonstrate both the heater and defroster are working properly.

Back to Top
Horns (Air Horn and City Horn)

Blow both horns to make sure they are working.

Back to Top
Lighting Indicators

Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard.

Back to Top
Safe Start

Make sure transmission is in neutral and then fully depress the clutch. Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine.

Back to Top
Seat Belt

The seat belt should not be ripped or frayed and should adjust and latch properly.

Back to Top
Oil Pressure Gauge

The engine oil pressure gauge should rise to normal operating range.

Back to Top
Parking Brake
  • Trailer Parking Brakes – Set the trailer brake, release the tractor brake, then tug lightly on the trailer.
  • Tractor Parking Brakes – Set the tractor brake, release the trailer brake and tug lightly on the trailer.
Back to Top
Service Brake Check

Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Apply the service brake to make sure you come to a complete stop and that it doesn’t pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.

Back to Top
Voltmeter

The voltmeter should be charging between 13 and 14 volts.

Back to Top
Water Temperature Gauge

The water temperature gauge should also rise to normal operating range.

Back to Top
Windshield and Mirrors

The windshield and mirrors must be clean, with no obstructions and in proper adjustment.

Back to Top
Windshield Wipers and Washers

Demonstrate the wipers and washers are working properly by spraying the windshield.

Back to Top

Video Courtesy of our Partner School, Roadmaster. Follow Roadmaster on Twitter.

If you found this page helpful please share it! 🙂

More study resources and reading: